1-15-2015 How do you build a guitar?... Plant some trees... wait 200 years... cut the trees down and make lumber... wait 200 years... cut up the lumber into a pile of sticks... glue the sticks together... whittle away everything that doesn't look like a guitar... easy and quick eh.
1-15-2015 Nonetheless here I am sanding the spanish cedar top plates. I will leave them thicker than they will end up.
1-15-2015 To join the two bookmatched plates together the joint edges must match each other. I use this squaring jig to prepare the edges. The back plate holds the piece perpendicular to a sanding strip.
1-15-2015 Once I am happy with the edges a thin bead of glue is applied.
1-15-2015 Then the two halves are put into the jointing jig. The wedges push the pieces together and the braces prevent them from buckling.
1-15-2015 A little bead of glue at the joint. After the glue has set I put the top plate aside for a while.
1-15-2015 This is a picture of the back pieces joined together the same way as the top. It also gets put aside for a while.
1-15-2015 Here I am laying out the side pieces with a template getting ready to bend them.
1-15-2015 I will bend the sides in a bending machine using a heating blanket assembly to get the wood hot. Wood becomes quite flexible as it is heated.
1-15-2015 The side blank goes on top of the heating blanket.
1-15-2015 And then a piece of flashing is laid on top followed by a thin sheet of spring steel. The spring steel prevents the wood from buckling and cracking.
1-15-2015 The assembly then goes into the bending machine and the heating blanket is turned on. It takes ten minutes or so for the wood to heat up and become flexible.
1-15-2015 I squirt water in between the flashing getting the wood wet. I will continue to water the wood down through out the bending process. The water prevents the wood from scorching and enhances its flexibility.
1-15-2015 I first press the waist into place.
1-15-2015 Attach the top roller.
1-15-2015 And roll the upper bout into place.
1-15-2015 The lower roller is attached.
1-15-2015 And the lower bout is rolled into place.
1-15-2015 After the wood cooks for a while I remove the top flashing to let the wood dry out and set more efficiently.
1-15-2015 When it has set up I put it into the side form to prevent spring back.
1-15-2015 The second half gets the same treatment. It usually takes an hour or so to bend a side.
1-15-2015 Since the sides are so thin 100 mil thick 1 mil = 1/1000 inch we need to add kerfing to give the top something to be glued to. I use a reverse kerfing system that results in a gunwale like structure that makes the sides very strong and stiff.
1-15-2015 The kerfing strips need to be bent just like the side blanks.
1-15-2015 The form that I use has the same shape as the sides I want so with the side blank in the form I trace out the shape onto the side blank.
1-15-2015 I then use my bandsaw to trim the blank to shape.
1-15-2015 I add a layer of glue to the kerfing strip.
1-15-2015 And then with lots of clamps I glue the kerfing in place. When I glue the kerfing in place the clamps press the kerfing onto the inside of the side and then the side gets pressed into the form which has the right shape. So if the form has the right shape the sides will end up having the right shape.
1-15-2015 One strip at a time.
1-15-2015 With lots of clamps... did I mention I have lots of clamps.
1-15-2015 When the glue has set the side comes out of the form and it holds its shape because of the revers kerfing. Here I am cleaning up the kerfing with a sanding drum.
1-15-2015 I then trim off the excess kerfing with the band saw.
1-15-2015 I put the side back into its form and trim off the ends with my multitool.
1-15-2015 This leaves the end of the side flush with the form.
1-15-2015 Here I have taped the two halves together.
1-15-2015 And then I put the rim-to-be in the form.
1-15-2015 The two halves of te rim will be glued together with a heel block and tail block. However the blocks need to be sanded to the same shape as the sides. Here I have mounted the heel block on a sanding template with the right shape.
1-15-2015 I then use the disk sander to shape the heel block.
1-15-2015 I need to remove the kerfing where the tie blocks will go. After position the heel block I clamp down two guide rails.
1-15-2015 And then I use a small saw to cut the kerfing. Since the rails where pushed up next to the block after I trim the kerfing the resulting channel will be just the right width.
1-15-2015 The kerfing is easy to remove from the side because the blue tape masked the area.
1-15-2015 The heel block drops right into place.
1-15-2015 The tail block gets shaped on the belt sander.
1-15-2015 And the block is positioned.
1-15-2015 Here I am routing a channel in the tail block to install a vertical tie strip. This tie strip will help prevent the sides from splitting should the guitar get dropped... your guitar never gets dropped does it?... don't do that!
1-15-2015 The kerfing is trimmed away.
1/15/2015
1-15-2015 And the tail block drops right in after the edges are beveled.
1-15-2015 A bit of glue.
1-15-2015 And a couple of clamps to press everything into place.
OM 2.15.66 Build Pictures
2-Sep-2016 Here I am laying out the brace pattern on the back of the top.
2-Sep-2016 Using the bandsaw to cut out some of the braces.
2-Sep-2016 I drill holes into the braces and route channels down the sides to reduce their mass.
2-Sep-2016 I also use the bandsaw to cut lap joints into the X-braces.
2-Sep-2016 With a little care they fit together perfectly.
2-Sep-2016 Next I sand the braces to shape.
9/2/2016
2-Sep-2016 Here I have laid out the braces on the back of the top.
2-Sep-2016 And now I can cut out the top plate.
9/2/2016
2-Sep-2016 Before I glue the braces in place I clean them up with a little hand sanding.
2-Sep-2016 Now I use my CNC Router to create the rosette.
2-Sep-2016 This rosette required several separate operations.
2-Sep-2016 There is lots of detail in this rosette that represents the corona of the sun.
9/2/2016
2-Sep-2016 The contra-rosette is a plate with a variety of Feynman diagrams.
2-Sep-2016 Now I start to glue the braces in place. Here I am working on the back braces.
9/2/2016
2-Sep-2016 Part of my process requires that I can accurately place the braces on the top. To do this I use a set of fiducial buttons that the braces fit on to.
2-Sep-2016 Here I am marking the braces where I will cut them.
2-Sep-2016 Now the sides snuggly fit into the braces.
2-Sep-2016 And I start to glue the top braces into place.
2-Sep-2016 When everything is dry I clean up the sound hole with the oscillating sander.
2-Sep-2016 And here are all the braces in place.
2-Sep-2016 Before I glue the top and bottom to the sides I install a set of side braces that will help prevent the sides from splitting.
9/2/2016
2-Sep-2016 A look at the back braces in place.
2-Sep-2016 And here is a picture of the rosettes... looks like a party!
2-Sep-2016 I install a label on the back of the heel block.
2-Sep-2016 With everything ready I glue the top and back to the sides.
2-Sep-2016 And I use a flange to press the top onto the sides.
2-Sep-2016 When it comes out of the form it has a lip that needs to be removed.
2-Sep-2016 I use a small router to clean up the edge.
9/2/2016
2-Sep-2016 I use this router template to create the cantilevered fretboard support channel.
2-Sep-2016 This will allow the neck to move freely as it is adjusted.
2-Sep-2016 The Box.
9/2/2016

OM 2.15.66 Build Pictures