CLSyC 2.1.67.Build
12-Jan-2015 After poking around a bit we ended up with this set of flamed Walnut... hot hot hot!
1/12/2015
12-Jan-2015 More to come on this page....
13-July-2015 To join the two halves of the top set I use my table saw to trim the edges to exactly match. This shooter sled holds the two pieces as they are sliced.
13-July-2015 When the two pieces are glued together the seam should be invisible.
13-July-2015 Just the right amount of glue on the edge.
13-July-2015 And then this contraption presses the two halves together while they are held flat.
13-July-2015 A little bit of glue squeeze out at the seam.
13-July-2015 Here I am leveling the back plates with the drum sander.
13-July-2015 And then the two edges are trimmed with the table saw.
7/13/2015
13-July-2015 And then glued together.
7/13/2015
13-July-2015 I use the drum sander one more time to make the two halves perfectly flush.
13-July-2015 Now to bend the sides. I made this form especially for this job. The cutaway curves have a little less than a 1 inch radius the tightest bend I thought I could get away with... this is my first venetian cutaway.
13-July-2015 The drum sander reduces the sides to 90 mil thick.
13-July-2015 To make the wood pliable I use this heating blanket. The heating element is between the two sheets of aluminum that the wood is laying on.
13-July-2015 I lay another sheet of aluminum on top of the wood.
13-July-2015 And then a sheet of thin spring steel.
13-July-2015 Finally I use a set of clothes pins to hold everything together.
13-July-2015 I leave a small lip to help when I squirt water between the layers.
13-July-2015 This assembly goes into the bending machine.
13-July-2015 It's a tight bend.
13-July-2015 I place the shoe and start heating up the assembly.
13-July-2015 A bit of water helps to keep the wood from scorching and to help lubricate the process.
13-July-2015 I squirt a bit of water every few minutes.
13-July-2015 I start bending the wood by pressing the waist into place.
13-July-2015 Then the lower bout.
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13-July-2015 And then I start working on the cutaway...
13-July-2015 Slowly...
13-July-2015 A little bit at a time...
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7/13/2015
13-July-2015 A couple of clamps help in the tight spots.
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7/13/2015
7/13/2015
13-July-2015 First part success.
13-July-2015 Now I take everything apart to expose the wood so it will dry.
13-July-2015 Nothing broke!
13-July-2015 And then I put everything back together so I can cook the wood and get a good set.
7/13/2015
7/13/2015
13-July-2015 I use the cross slats to make sure everting lies flat.
13-July-2015 After several hours of moderate heat the wood holds it shape.
13-July-2015 A funny shaped piece of wood.
13-July-2015 The same thing gets done to the other side.
7/13/2015
7/13/2015
7/13/2015
7/13/2015
CLSyC 2.1.67.Build
8-Aug-2015 Now I have laid the bent side blank in the form.
8-Aug-2015 And I carefully trace out the shape of the side on the blank. I have built the forms so they have the desired shape.
8-Aug-2015 I use my band saw and a raised anvil to trim the side blank to shape.
8/8/2015
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 The cutaway side requires special attention at the front end. The angle of the cut and the length of the cut have to be just right.
8-Aug-2015 I start out with the piece a bit longer than necessary.
8-Aug-2015 And then slowly trim the end until it fits perfectly. The cutaway is bent to follow the shape of the heel so there will be a minimal shelf between the neck and the body. This causes the shape of the cutaway side to be highly complex.
8/8/2015
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 Lots of clamps to make sure everything is fitting just right.
8-Aug-2015 And then after marking the sides I use the bandsaw to trim off the excess.
8-Aug-2015 Making sure everything fits again.
8-Aug-2015 I use the multi-tool to trim the end pieces.
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 And then I put everything back into the form to make sure it all fits.
8-Aug-2015 For a cutaway I use a special trick to mark the cut line on the curved sections.
8-Aug-2015 I carefully position the sides in the form over the sanding plate and then use an elevated scribe to mark the cut line.
8-Aug-2015 Then I use the sanding belt to trim the section to shape.
8-Aug-2015 Making sure everything fits again.
8-Aug-2015 Now I turn my attention to making the kerfing.
8-Aug-2015 The cut kerfing will be bent in the same way that the sides were bent.
8/8/2015
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 I place a bit of tape over the section where the tie blocks will go so it is easy to remove the kerfing once it is glued in place.
8-Aug-2015 The kerfing gets a bit of glue.
8-Aug-2015 And is glued in place along the edges using lots of clamps.
8-Aug-2015 The clamps press the kerfing into the sides and the sides into the form so the final shape of the sides will be the same as the form.
8-Aug-2015 First one side of the the kerfing and then the other.
8-Aug-2015 I use plenty of glue and then use the air gun to blow out the excess.
8-Aug-2015 The cutaway side requires a bit of special attention because of the tight curves.
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 I have chosen to add an addition layer of mahogany stripping over the curved sections of the cut away to guaranty its integrity.
8-Aug-2015 Now I start making the heel block.
8-Aug-2015 The central hole will be used to screw the neck to the body.
8-Aug-2015 The two side holes are used to adjust the yaw of the neck.
8-Aug-2015 And then the fret board plate gets trimmed to an angle.
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 I have marked the shape of the neck on the front of the heel block and use the band saw to trim it to shape.
8-Aug-2015 And then I mark the kerfing where it will get sanded away.
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 I work the assembly until the heel block fits just right.
8-Aug-2015 And then trim the kerfing off off the other side.
8-Aug-2015 Now the heel block will fit into the space and join the two halves of the side together.
8-Aug-2015 But first I check using lots of clamps that everything fits right and points in the right direction.
8-Aug-2015 The tail block gets positioned.
8-Aug-2015 And saw guides are placed so the tail block will fit perfectly.
8-Aug-2015 This tail block will have a trap door so we can access all of the adjustments for the sympathetic strings so I have cut it into pieces.
8-Aug-2015 And ten I glue them all in place.
8-Aug-2015 Now for the heel block.
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 A bit of glue.
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 Drop it in place.
8-Aug-2015 And start adding clamps.
8-Aug-2015 These wedged spacers will match the shape of the kerfing
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 More clamps.
8-Aug-2015 And more clamps.
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8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 I am pressing the heel block into place in every direction I can get a clamp into.
8-Aug-2015 After the sides are glued together the rim goes into the form and is clamped in place.
8-Aug-2015 I use the sanding plate to sand the edge of the rim to match the plate. The top and back will be built using these plates so they will ultimately match shape around the perimeter when they are glued together. The sanding plates are built to have the same shape as the top and back.
8-Aug-2015 The top rim gets the same treatment as the back rim.
8/8/2015
8-Aug-2015 And then I do a bit of fine tuning of the fretboard plate to make sure it is pointing in the right direction.
8-Aug-2015 The rough rim.
8-Aug-2015 Description
CLSyC 2.1.67.Build
18-OCT-2015 I am going to route out the heel channel in the rim. Here I have mounted the rim to this router template.
18-OCT-2015 I will route the channel 1 " deep.
10/18/2015
10/18/2015
18-OCT-2015 The channel has the same profile as the shape of the neck. The neck will be framed by binding to hide the gap.
10/18/2015
18-OCT-2015 Here I am drilling the holes for the adjustment and attachment hardwarein the heel channel.
18-OCT-2015 Two 1/x20 wood inserts in the face of the channel for yaw control and one 1/4x20 wood insert from the rear for the angle adjustment.
18-OCT-2015 The set screws and bolts are accessed from the rear of the heel plate.
18-OCT-2015 Next I have carefully cut out the the rear access plate from the end of the guitar.
10/18/2015
18-OCT-2015 I am gluing in a maple frame to fill the kerf.
18-OCT-2015 And then a back stop for the hole plate.
10/18/2015
18-OCT-2015 Now I mount a brace blank on the shaping template.
18-OCT-2015 And I use the template to shape the blank. I set the platen on an angle to limit the loading on the sand paper.
18-OCT-2015 It will be a perfect fit.
18-OCT-2015 I next used the table saw to dimension the thickness the of the brace.
18-OCT-2015 I used the belt sander among other things to shape the braces.
10/18/2015
18-OCT-2015 Now I lay out the shape of the rim on the back plate.
18-OCT-2015 And cut it out with the bandsaw. I leave a 1/4 inch guard excess around the perimeter.
10/18/2015
18-OCT-2015 Placing the bracing.
18-OCT-2015 And checking to make sure everything fits.
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18-OCT-2015 To glue the braces in place I use a go-box.
18-OCT-2015 Flexible rods push in just the right places.
10/18/2015
10/18/2015
18-OCT-2015 Here I am trimming off a piece of Honduran Mahogany for the neck blanks.
18-OCT-2015 Carefully laid out and cut wit the band saw.
18-OCT-2015 I get two blanks from each piece of wood.
18-OCT-2015 I first trim the headstock so the platen for the fretboard is the right length.
18-OCT-2015 The Miter Saw trims the end of the heel.
18-OCT-2015 To create the heel I mount the neck blank in the template fixture.
18-OCT-2015 And I use the router table to trim the sides.
10/18/2015
10/18/2015

CLSyC 2.1.67.Build


symphony cutaway build thread