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(228) 4-Jan-2010
A picture of the neck entering the body and the floating fretboard. |
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(227) 4-Jan-2010
A picture of the waist and the sound hole. |
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(226) 4-Jan-2010
I spend a lot of time trying to hide the gaps between the neck and body. |
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(225) 4-Jan-2010
Another detail shot. |
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(224) 4-Jan-2010
The end graft. |
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(223) 4-Jan-2010
A picture of the binding and purfling. |
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(222) 4-Jan-2010
Here I have installed the Cocobolo heal cap. |
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(221) 4-Jan-2010
The neck fits. |
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(220) 4-Jan-2010
In
this picture I am setting up to shave the neck outline binding so that
the neck will fit with a very narrow gap. There has to be a gap
so the neck can move al a the User Adjustable Tilt Action Neck. |
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(219) 4-Jan-2010
The top and sides get the same treatment as the bottom. |
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(218) 4-Jan-2010
After
going over all of the binding with glue to fill in any voids and to
make sure all of the pieces are well secured I start to sand everything
flush. |
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(217) 4-Jan-2010
The binding and purfling have been installed. Everything is a bit proud of the final surface level. |
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(216) 4-Jan-2010
Here
I am using a push stick to force the binding into place. The
bendalator gets the binding strips close to the final shape, but I
don't want any visible gaps. |
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(215) 4-Jan-2010
I glue the binding down one inch at a time, trying to get a good fit. |
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(214) 4-Jan-2010
And the two pieces meet in the front. |
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(213) 4-Jan-2010
The bottom binding starts at the back. |
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(212) 4-Jan-2010
Here is the first piece of maple binding being installed. |
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(211) 4-Jan-2010
Pinstriping everywhere. |
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(210) 4-Jan-2010
Here I am installing the pinstripes that go on the sides. |
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(209) 4-Jan-2010
The channels for the purfling that will outline the neck. |
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(208) 4-Jan-2010
Before I can continue I have to route the channels for the neck outline. |
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(207) 4-Jan-2010
I am careful to make sure that there are no gaps between the strips and wood. I try to leave no gaps. |
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(206) 4-Jan-2010
I use cyanoacrylate glue and a little heat to tack the various strips into place. |
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(205) 4-Jan-2010
And next comes the herringbone purfling on the top. |
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(204) 4-Jan-2010
Next I install the bloodwood purfling on the top. |
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(203) 4-Jan-2010
I finish up where I started. |
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(202) 4-Jan-2010
This is a relatively flexible material, but nonetheless I am careful to make sure that it is fully seated in the channel. |
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(201) 4-Jan-2010
In this picture I am starting the process of installing the pinstripe purfling on the bottom.
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(200) 4-Jan-2010
The wood binding and purfling I will use gets bent in the "Universal Bendalator." |
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(199) 4-Jan-2010
I am laying out the wood binding and purfling in the heeting blanket.
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(198) 4-Jan-2010
The channel for the purfling on the top is a bit deeper. |
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(197) 4-Jan-2010
Next I route out a channel for the purfling on the bottom. |
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(196) 4-Jan-2010
To start, the top gets the channel with the same dimensions as the bottom. |
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(195) 4-Jan-2010
A close up look at the binding channel. |
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(194) 4-Jan-2010
Here I am using my "Universal Bindalator" to route out the main channel for the binding. |
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(193) 4-Jan-2010
I am preparing to route out the channels for the binding so I set up the router with a block of MDF. |
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(192) 4-Jan-2010
The top gets a bit of sanding at this point to smooth everything out and to reduce the thickness of the top around the edges. |
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(191) 4-Jan-2010
In this picture I am sanding the sides of the guitar to make them as square. level and smooth as possible. |